Allerton Park

Since we were given a three-day weekend and my boyfriend was having cabin fever due to working from home, we planned a last minute day trip to Allerton Park about an hour away.

If you haven’t been to my neck of the woods (the lovely Midwest), I want to note that most people see Illinois as a flat land covered in cornfields. Now, that isn’t entirely true - we have bean fields too! But honestly, you’d be surprised how much hidden woodland is in IL. Allerton itself is nestled into this large patch of trees and trails despite the acres of farmland you drive past to reach it.

The park itself was a home to an artist and philanthropist named Robert Allerton in the 1900s. Originally born in Chicago, Robert found his way to Paris to study art. However he had sort of a quarter-life crisis and burned all of his paintings, claiming himself as a failed artist. He then moved back home and took over the family "farms" in Monticello know known as Allerton Park.

He devoted much of his time to travel, collecting pieces of artwork that he'd later display across the estate he inherited. In 1922 met a man named John Gregg who became his lifelong traveling companion (and alleged lover - you go Robert!) who later lived with him. At one point Robert did legally adopt John when Illinois passed a law allowing adults to adopt other adults. I found this odd, but as I dug into Robert's past, this type of adoption was a common cover for same-sex couples since they could not be legally wed at the time. John even took Robert's last name after his death to ensure his name would live on as he continued Robert's philanthropy. Their ashes were eventually scattered together in Hawaii near their winter home. Honestly? Relationship goals right there.

The Retreat Center was donated to the University of Illinois in 1946 to use as an education and resource center as well as a wildlife preserve and pubic park. Since then it's been well preserved and has become a common tourist spot for those visiting the state.

There are a good number of trails to use and as someone who has done quite a bit of hiking, I think this is the most unique area I've visited. I only say that because there are different statues that you come across the further you explore. I found most to be slightly terrifying - for example a gorilla carrying away a nude woman who is clearly still alive and resisting. There was another of a man being mauled by a bear. On closer inspection you can see that the man is holding an injured (possibly dead) bear cub and is now facing the consequence of his violent act.

I wonder if there was a man vs nature theme prevalent in these statues. Especially after finding them buried in the woods, I interpreted them as a warning to not interfere with the delicate balance of nature. Either way, Allerton had interesting taste and I found myself feeling rather melancholy, but intrigued at the art.

Despite the eeriness of the hidden artwork, I thoroughly enjoyed discovering them. They made the trails a bit more exciting - almost like a scavenger hunt. There was a part where we came to an open grassy area with some large pillars. Across was an open trail leading to an ascending staircase leading to a sculpture titled “Death of the Last Centaur”.

The park also provides gardens that you can stroll through filled with wildflowers and hedge mazes. At the end you come to a “sunken garden” when the land dips into an open grassy area. On either side of this are two large monuments marking the ends that rise up slightly. It’s quite breathtaking to walk through the first time.

On the opposite end you can walk through a winding path with hedges aligning the sides until you arrive at a tower. The tower is ancient looking and covered in shrubs likes it’s been given back to nature for quite some time. On the other side of it you can turn down another pathway aligned by Chinese guardian lions. Keep following this pathway and you’ll be led back into the woods.

We also stayed in the mansion overnight and it was soothing to wake up to a view facing a large pond and walking trails. It was raining just a bit that morning, which made the view extra cozy. I personally admire Jane Austen novels and felt like I was transported into one while in the mansion. Her books often talk about characters living in these beautiful, vintage homes and spend their days taking walks. I could see how this area would accommodate that lifestyle and for a moment it made me feel nostalgic for a time era I’ve never experienced.

If you happen to be in IL and are in need of a small getaway, Allerton is a great destination for a long weekend. It doesn’t cost anything to hike or visit the gardens, which is also nice if you’re on a budget and are feeling more up to a day trip. I personally didn’t realize how desperately my body needed some fresh air and sunlight. For the last few months I've only been leaving to go to work then straight back home without much else in between so this night away was much needed. I hope to be back soon!